VintageGent’s Menswear Daily

Lacroix files Chapter 11

It was recently reported in Women’s Wear Daily that the design house of Christian Lacroix is filing Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection:

“Our intent is definitely a continuation of the business,” Nicolas Topiol, Lacroix’s chief executive officer, said in an interview before meeting with the firm’s 125 employees. “But the crisis has definitely hit us below the knees.”

Topiol said orders for the fall-winter season sank 35 percent, with many retail buyers skipping Paris Fashion Week altogether.

Lacroix won wide acclaim in March for his chic take on Parisian style, from tapered peacoats to draped jersey dresses, but the venue — a shabby parking garage in the Marais district — spoke to the firm’s financial constrictions.

Topiol declined to say how much creditors are owed — principally suppliers and general service providers — but said losses have ballooned to about 10 million euros, or about $14 million at current exchange, on revenues that have shriveled to about 30 million euros, or $42 million.

In my opinion, sometimes the fashion houses need a shake up. If I had a fashion line that had no choice but to appear in a parking garage, I would have ditched the live fashion show altogether. I would have invested in a few hip backdrops and would have staged an exclusive web only pod casted fashion show. With the right smoke and mirrors, no one would have known it wasn’t at a posh location.  The show would have had additional staying power as people watched it many hours after the actual event was to take place.  In fact, there could have been no live event at all.  The other alternative was to make it look like the parking garage was avant gard and went with a theme.

Many designers have found new life with creating items for mass market stores, such as Vera Wang and Isaac Mizrahi. Should Lacroix go back to his roots of design and try his hand at designing something that could be mass produced?  Do you think Lacroix should stay as it is, but scale back?  Do you think the greates hits of the Spring 2009 fashion show was too little too late?  If people aren’t buying, I always say either you are not promoting yourself, you have started to ignore the original people whose interest you built your business on the backs of, or you are mismanaging the wallet.

The latest news is that a Swiss group of investors is looking to purchase Lacroix?  Will the name alone be a good investment?  Will Lacroix go the way of many other designers and just be a name slapped onto items of various origins, or will the new structure be the same old business, but with better watch dogs?

What do you think?

Wanted: YouTube Subscribers. Bounty: $300 Gift Certificate

Remember the club shirts that I posted that said “I Love My Boyfriend” and “I Love My Hubby?” I thought they served two purposes. It is very sweet for ladies to wear them to let the world know about their feelings. It certainly also helps out the guys at the club, so they can avoid rejection and avoid the gals that are definitely not into them and are just out to have a good time. AMI ClubWear, the online store that offers the shirts, is looking for subscribers on YouTube. In fact, they want you to join so much that they are offering you a chance to win a $300 gift certificate for you or your gal!

There are official contest rules. The most important part is that the contest begins at 12:01 a.m. EST on May 28, 2009 and ends at 11:59 p.m. EST on June 24, 2009. Although you may, of course, subscribe after that period, you will not be entered into the contest. No one will be notified that their entry is received. Rather, the winner will be notified within three days after the entry period of the contest via email. Also, before I forget: You must be a legal resident of the United States, and be 18 years old or older. International subscribers are most welcome, but you will be ineligible to win.

What would you do with the $300? Certainly, you wouldn’t take a fur coat to Las Vegas like this young lady thought:

Have fun, and check out the AMIClubwear YouTube channel to toss your name in the hat. If you don’t enter, you can’t win!

Father’s Day Gift Idea #2: Cobwebby Mysteries

S.S. Van Dine was quite a colorful character. Lore tells us that he fell gravely ill for two years, and wrote the Philo Vance mysteries while bedridden. His biography tells us that he was actually bedridden because of a cocaine addiction that he was under the grips of or needed to kick. At any rate, he was confined and read many crime stories, hence the novels were born smack dab in the art deco era!

This set of mystery novels was lovingly collected by a fan back in the day. It appears that they bought each Philo Vance novel as it was released. In the novels, author Van Dine appears as a Watson like character to the bon vivant Vance. Philo Vance was a fencer, archer, connoisseur of Chinese ceramics, polo, fine cuisine, and student of crime history.

This set is available on Etsy. They would be a great gift alone, or pair them with slippers or a robe, a magnifying glass, or Dad’s favorite kind of coffee. They would look very fashionable in a bookshelf or on a side table, just as well as they would do being actually read.  Imagine that…actually reading them!  The collection includes: The “Canary” Murder Case, The Greene Murder Case, The Bishop Murder Case, Gracie Allen Murder Mystery, The Garden Murder Case, The Kidnap Murder Case.

To get a closer gander at them, click HERE.

A Fashionable Auction Donation

There have been some gift certificates given for a few charity auctions I have helped organize that entitled the winner to receive a massage. How fashionable! Sometimes, the gift certificate is given by the spa, but many other times, it is given by a very happy client of a massage therapist. They are easy to obtain from a therapist or spa, but if you are looking for something more instantaneous, good for a single, dual, or couples massages in chicago, The Tiffani Kim Institute has gift certificates available on their website.

You choose the amount for as little as$25.00 or as much as $1000.00. Then, you choose a design for the occasion, such as the examples at left. There are popular selections and recommendations for special occasions. After you choose a pretty picture, you can write your message. The gift certificate, complete with bar code can be printed, or emailed to the recipient.

I know people occasionally misplace things in the excitement of an auction. I have definitely seen it happen. You could make a nice card to place on the auction table, and then when a winner is determined, go home and purchase the gift certificate online. Then, it will be conveniently emailed. If they have a printing snafu or lose that one, they can always print it out again. How convenient. It also helps the charity, as volunteers won’t have to watch the coveted gift certificate with eagle eyes during the hustle and bustle of the event. In addition, sometimes the massage certificate generates so much interest that people get bid happy and bid up other items too, or draws more people to the auction. That works for you, doesn’t it?

Undiscovered Talent from Around the Planet

When I see clothing shown on the runway, I always wonder where I can get them.  More particularly, I wonder where one can get the clothing that is shown on runways more than just in Paris.  There have been shows that I have seen on YouTube from Russia and Japan that had some very intriguing clothing.  While many readers like to wear head to toe vintage clothing, others are concerned with supporting emerging talent.  It just seems to take awhile for things to trickle down, if they ever do.

PlanetTogs seems to bridge the gap nicely. While many buyers and magazines are at Fashion Week, they are looking at what is going on in Brazil, and even Riga Fashion Week in Latvia. Often, the website is the only way to obtain the items within the United States, and sometimes the world.

The price points vary widely, but they are much lower than many high fashion items from Paris designers, partly because of the name recognition.   There are many undiscovered designers that are creating things that are very different from what you would see in mainstream magazines.  At left is a denim skirt from an Australian designer, Pizzuto.  It is priced within reach at $124.00.  There are also items from designers from Serbia, Brazil, Singapore, Spain, and more.

All of the items are made within the country of their designer.  So, when you order an item from a Spanish designer, you will not receive an item made in China.  Often, designers use fabrics and raw materials that are locally sourced, and so are the garment makers.  You can be sure that you are supporting a designer’s creative team with your purchase.

Right now, the ladies have all the fun. Perhaps some day they will offer things for men as well.  In the meantime, ladies can sure to find items that no one else will show up to the party in, and you can feel confident that you can give a unique gift.

Just a Little Bite of Trend Prediction

I admit that USA Today is not always my bag.  With the articles reduced to little bites and the pretty graphics, it is not exactly the in depth, intellectual publication that befits me.  Okay, okay, I should fess up.  I have a certain fondness for the publication, as when I was in grade school, the paper gave them to us free.  They believed that kids should learn to read the paper and have appreciation for it, so our school, and many others, received them in English or Civics class.   Our teacher even gave us a little primer on how the paper was set up, format wise.  Was that a public service, or were they trying to drill brad recognition into our brains?  We were flim flammed!

Any way, the pretty graphics were a special feature from Men.style.com.  According to the report, items from 1966 and 1986 are in.  Three button jackets with narrow lapels are in (again).  Seersucker and navy, and brass buttons are in as well.  A few years back, maybe around 2004 or 2005, the brass buttoned navy blazer look was pedaled around, but I didn’t really see many people on the street adopting it.   The positive is that the 60s suits that have really never waned in popularity in the past few years can vontinue to be worn without looking as if one was on the tail end of a trend.

On the pants and trousers front, khakis are being touted as “in.”  However, they are flat front and not meant for people who are carrying a bunch of extra pounds.  In otherwords, there are going to be a lot of people who buy them and not look right.  Slim cut chinos in red are not something everyone can pull off, but for those that can, definitely have at it.

Then, there are the accessories.  To continue the nautical theme, it is suggested one carry a boat tote.  I can see this trend as something practical for ladyfolk, or for those guys who are out for a day of fun in the sun.  I can’t quite picture someone running across town with a boat tote.  If you like the look, there are many totes available from sellers of vintage clothing.  They were bigger in the 80s, but you’ll find them from the past several decades.  Just watch that the style looks more utilitarian, otherwise you will look like a guy carrying your sister’s tote bag.

The saddle oxford can be duplicated with a variety of two toned shoes.  The mod era and into the 70s had its share.   If you are looking for something brand new and don’t want to pay an arm and a leg for something trendy, there are men’s stores in chiefly urban centers that are still rocking out with the black and whites and the brown and caramels.  Maybe I shouldn’t stay “still,” but rather, they have continued.  You may just find some makers who have been spitting them out for years, and therefore, you may get something that is economically priced.

What do you think about this assessment?  What do you think will actually be worn on the streets, not counting New York or LA, but the rest of America?

Latest Ladies Clubwear for Hot Summer Nights

The last time I went to a bona fide nightclub, rather than another type of nightspot like a piano lounge or a blues club, it was forever ago. You could see everyone there from the folks who apparently just rolled out of bed, to those in satin shirts, and those who look like they were wearing their bathing suits. In just a couple years, what one wore to a dance club ended up being worn day to day on the streets. I stopped going because it was less about people watching and the music and more about people having the excuse to be unruly, and you didn’t care who saw you.

I guess I am in need of an update! The virtual racks of AMI Clubwear has what women are wearing to clubs nowadays. The look, for the most part is “fun summer dress” rather than the “underwear on the outside” look that was big in the 90s.  Of course, there are microshort dresses, but there are also fun items for the gal that is not comfortable showing a lot of skin, but still is looking for something fun and body conscious.   The shirt, at left, made me smile.  They have the “I Love My Hubby” and “I Love My Boyfriend” shirt in a variety of colors, all with a sparkly L-O-V-E.   It says, “Hey, I am confident, I am out to have fun watching the band, but don’t ask for my number.  Ask for my girlfriend’s.”  I personally think that it is very sweet.  No hurt feelings, and that must be one special dude!

They also have a babydoll trench coat to offer.  In fact, they have several styles.  What is a babydoll trench coat?  It features the great buttons and ties that a trench style coat has.  Only, it is a shorter length to better match outfits that may feature leggings, or a microshort skirt.  It is also a lot less bulky and fits on the back of your chair without everyone stepping all over it.  This hasn’t been scientifically tested, but I know from experience that in close quarters, people aren’t always kind to long coats.  Coat checks aren’tde rigueur like they used to be, except at special events for the most part.

Like many companies that have their finger on the pulse on what is hot now, AMI is in Twitter.  You can follow them @Amiclubwear, if you would like all the latest updates.  I checked them out, and they tweet about items as they add them as well as fashion trends.  They were recently featured in Seventeen for prom accessories, according to yesterday’s tweet.

Now, they just need to school the guys on the showing up to a club in hospital scrubs.  You may think that being a doctor, or nurse tells girls you have money, but who wants a gold digger?  More so, who comes near anyone who smells like anesthetic and bandages?  Go home, take a shower, and change.  Maybe AMI will come out with men’s clothing soon too.

You Should Write a Book! Really.

Many of you have shared your hobbies and intersts with me. I am amazed and thrilled about the knowledge of many of my readers. The compliment, “You should write a book!” might be something you hear often.  The writing part may be intriguing to you, but then there is that whole mess of getting the darn thing published, much less read. One of the options has always been self-publishing, and then you make about fifty cents a book, if that.  Most times, you end up losing money and have a basement full of books that you cannot sell.

I just came across a press release about an architect that was rejected by publishing houses, and then turned around and had more success than he would have had with a large publisher:

Self Publishing Author Earns Over $100,000 in Just Six Months with Outskirts Press
May 12th, 2009. Denver, CO and Irvine, CA – Outskirts Press, the fastest-growing full-service self publishing and book marketing company, today announced that one of its authors has earned over $100,000 in author royalties in six short months.

Gang Chen, the self published author of Planting Design Illustrated and LEED AP Exam Guide, will receive a first-quarter royalty check in the amount of $77,611.88 for books sold between January-March 2009. This follows a previous royalty check of $33,679.56 that Chen recently received from Outskirts Press for books sold between October-December 2008.

“Earning $111,000 in six months is an amazing accomplishment for any author, self-published or otherwise,” Outskirts Press CEO Brent Sampson commented. “Of course, publishing with Outskirts Press certainly helps. We extend heartfelt congratulations to Mr. Chen, and also want to thank him for graciously granting us permission to publicize his success.”

Gang Chen, an expert in the field of architecture, with a master’s degree from USC and over 20 years of professional experience, was among the top-five performing Outskirts Press authors in the 4th quarter of 2008 and then went on to double his royalties for the first quarter of 2009. When notified of his earnings, Chen responded, “I’m in the process of publishing my next book in the LEED Exam Guide series through Outskirts Press, along with a book on architecture, so I hope to break this record soon.”

After contacting hundreds of traditional publishers for his first book Planting Design Illustrated, Chen finally landed a deal with one major publisher, only to discover that he was dissatisfied with the substantial revisions they were suggesting. He promptly cancelled the traditional publishing contract and decided to publish the book himself. He compared various publishing options and chose Outskirts Press. “Their services do not end after the book is published,” Chen stated. “They continue to provide excellent marketing advice, as well.”

Outskirts Press understands that marketing is a huge part of an author’s success and, unlike most self-publishing firms, offer promotional advice and marketing services extending for years after publication. States CEO Brent Sampson, “Successful authors have the potential to separate themselves from the pack by publishing with a full-service, custom publishing company that provides support before, during, and after publication.” For a partial view of the marketing services that are available for Outskirts Press authors, visit http://outskirtspress.com/marketing.php .

There has been a book that has rattled around in my head for some time. In fact, pen is to paper and I have most of it finished. This is motivating me to finish it and get it out there. Not sure if anyone will latch on to it, but this story gives me some hope that if I decided to release it, it won’t be a long and grueling process. In fact, what gives me writer’s block the most is the fear of rejection. As long as I edit it well and am willing to pay the fee, I won’t be. Many people wonder why one has to pay a fee. Well, even setting up a book costs money. Plus, if you were to be represented by a large publishing house, you would probably have to spend even more money just to get yourself in line for a meeting with them. Lunches, a new suit, and other materials all add up very quickly.

I tossed my email address in to receive more information, and I am reading the downloads now. Have you tried Outskirts Press or any other self-publishing service? If so, let me know what you think!

Summer Memories at Morey’s

My brother and I were going through old family photos, and it really brought back a lot of memories. One such memory was recalling that, as a child, one of my loves was going down a giant fiberglass slide at the park. They gave you a mat, and you would make your journey up the staircase again and again. It was interesting for me to discover that there is a whole amusement park that based itself around an initial slide like the one I liked so much as a child.

Morey’s Piers in Wildwood, New Jersey started out with two brothers, a giant fiberglass slide and a dream. In the 50s and 60s, Bill Morey operated a boardwalk concession stand, while Will was a developer. They spotted a giant fiberglass slide languishing in Fort Lauderdale, and thought it was the perfect thing to attract more business to the boardwalk. But where do you put a giant fiberglass slide?

The brothers bought a mini golf course as well as a languishing restaurant to complement the slide, and Surf Side Park was born. The photo, at left, shows the slide circa 1969, and after 1976. The ape you see had been a part of a Planet of Apes Themed attraction/ride at Morey’s Piers, and the Ape is seen here at its new spot in the park. Way back when, the park was two piers separated by some municipal land, but it has grown by leaps and bounds since, hence the plural “Piers” in the name. It was the start of many great New Jersey attractions, all on one property!

Fast forward to today, and Morey’s Piers is a crown jewel among New Jersey amusement parks, roller coasters and other great attractions. As an added attraction, the Radio Disney Concert Series will be offered free to the public this summer. It begins next month and runs through August. Check out the Morey’s Piers website for details and links to accomodations as well.

The Piers are not just a place for having a great time eating more cotton candy than you can eat and riding the rides, but it is also a great spot for a Jersey Shore beach Vacation just like it was in decades past. Below, a beach scene from the 1970s, contemporary to the time of Morey’s Piers’ beginnings.  Make your own memories this summer. Who knows, maybe the photos you take will give your family plenty of laughs in the future of what you all wore for bathing suits in 2009! The seventies can’t be the only decade of interesting fashion choices.

Cotton: The Suit for Spring

This spring, many designers are offering suiting pieces in cotton. They are bypassing linen and silk/cotton blends and going just for the source material. Cotton has recently been touted as the ecologically sound choice in fabric. It is sustainable, one doesn’t have to use harsh drycleaning methods on it, and it does not require the use of animals. However, I offer that I have owned many cotton items with a “Dry Clean Only” tag hanging on to the inside of the collar or pocket for dear life.

Truth be told, when a garment says Dry Clean, versus Dry Clean Only, it means radically different things. A clothing or textile maker is required to suggest at least one washing method for a garment. When you see “Dry Clean,” it is merely a suggestion. You may get optimum durability out of a garment by drycleaning it, but the manufacturer is surely not suggesting the trousers will cease to be if you should try a home cleaning kit or Woolite. When a tag says Dry Clean ONLY, this typically means that it is the only thing a person not in the top 10 of textile experts in the world should do to it without shrinking or otherwise shattering its soul.

Will the latest selections of formal and business wear be a college student’s dream? In otherwords, can you toss the trouser, jacket, and vest in the big barrel at the laundromat? My best assessment is a big fat NO. I venture that the garments are going to still require or at least suggest drycleaning as the preferred mode of cleaning. Afterall, it is not a faux pas to wear a sport coat more than once, providing that you have proper garments underneath and are not barechested. However, it is indeed a faux pas to have the garment rolling around on the floor, somewhere underneath the dog and a bag of Cheetos for a week before the next outing. Surely, your companions of choice will be able to immediately guess that you did not go on a globe trotting adventure, but merely are a slacker.

Keep your eyes open for cotton suits this spring and summer.  They are not just for the Bahamas any more. In fact, sometimes you won’t be able to assess the fabric content unless you are so close to it, that you will be construed as rude or a bit too friendly to the wearer.