VintageGent’s Menswear Daily

Fashion is Meant to be Worn, Right?

A few months ago, I reported that Christian Lacroix filed for bankruptcy (read the story HERE.   On August 13, Escada followed suit.  Bruno Saelzer, who used to head up Hugo Boss and recently took the helm of Escada, was not able to change the tide.   

Some may say that this is a sign of recession or depression all over the world.  I don’t necessarily think so.  Some fashion houses, to me, operate with entitlement.  They are sometimes the first to respond with a new color way, but the last to do market research.   There will always be someone with money to buy their items, but the competition is fierce.  If the line does not change with the times, the times will leave it behind.  Once, Escada outfitted Princess Diana.  There are no other icons that I can think of since.

So, where are all the men’s designers in this?  Why are their more women’s designers filing?  Could it be, perhaps, that there is less pomp and pageantry in men’s fashion?  Most men, even the most well healed, will not be humiliated if someone else shows up to an event in the same suit.  It will look so different anyways, based on the way it is accessorized (shirt, tie, etc), the way it is worn (tieless, vest or no vest), and the man’s build.  It seems more creativity comes in the form of casual clothing for men than it does in formal.   Maybe if it is too outlandish, men won’t buy.

Also, I would offer that by and large, men’s clothing is designed for men by men.  While there are women’s designers in the menswear industry, it is not an overwhelming number.  On the other hand, who is designing ladies clothing?  There are many female designers, but a large chunk are men.  Basically, men are designing for women.   Vera Wang, of course, designs for women.   Her styles have a definite niche that can be identified, and to diversify, she has delved into the aisles of Kohl’s with accessories and some clothing.   For the most part, she is known for her wedding gowns and formals.

If things go according to intention, a woman will only need her once in their lives.  Her secondary merchandise not only supplements her bread and butter, but it also serves, and maybe that is the true key, to keep her name in the minds of young women.   Their favorite purse as a teenager was a Simply Vera Wang, so her name will ring a bell when wedding bells ring.   Women who would normally not splurge tend to think of a wedding gown as a high expense anyhow.

Some purists would consider this “slumming.” It dilutes her voice when pandering to a lower price point. However, I would argue, fashion is to be worn, and if no one is wearing it, you do one of two things. You design things specifically that your customer base will want to wear, or with some slight modifications, you find new customers who will want to wear it. It has been discovered that the new customer base is hungry for it. It is “new” to them, where it may be tired to someone else. It may be not high fashion, but its definitely business.

Who will stay alive when its all said and done? Probably the ones who adapt.