VintageGent’s Menswear Daily

Miscellaneous Fit Tips for Men’s Suits

Here are some miscellaneous fitting tips from here and there.  There are many different preferences out there as far as lapels, colors, and shapes.  Sensibilities also changed from fashion era to fashion era.  These tips will make a suit look like it fits you well, whether you are looking for a suit off the rack, or are looking for something more historical.  Sometimes the difference between looking “dated” and looking like you have great taste and prefer vintage clothing are tips to keep in mind like these.

• When buying a slim fit suit or skinny pants, tailor the hem to have little or no break.  Having a break makes a sleek line appear ill fitting or baggy.  Save the break for pants with a standard or wider leg.
• “Long” sizes are meant for gents who are 6′ 3″ and taller.  There are many men who are 5′10″ to 6′2″ who just assume they are a long, just because they are not a short.  Standard suits are meant to accommodate you, just make sure to order the correct inseam length. That will do it.  If you order a long that you don’t need, the jacket will hang down too long.
• The tip of your tie should not hang lower than your belt.  While the tie has rested everywhere from the stomach to below the belt in various times, having the tie land here will bring you into the modern era.  The exception would be those wide, art deco ties.  They are meant to be worn a bit shorter, but tying them longer would bring the look more up to date.
• Your jacket should reveal 1/4″ of the collar of your dress shirt in the back.  This is so when you sit or shift around, your suit won’t ride up over it.

• Watch the gap.  There should not be a gap in the back between the neck and the shoulders.  This means the jacket is too big. They say you should try on the sizes until you find the one that is a slightly uncomfortable, then try the next size up.  This works if you start larger and gradually go down.  You won’t always have this luxury of unlimited sizes with vintage suits but in modern suits it will work better.

Motorcycle Shirts Without the Big “H”

The “biker jacket” is in style this fall for men and ladies.  A conversation started between a friend and myself about all the gear out there that is emblazoned with Harley logos.  What about other bikes? Of course, part of the appeal of Harley is that the bikes are made in the USA, but what about goldwing accessories, as the bikes have a very fervent following?

I actually found a Goldwing shirt on the web that had a little style to it.  It is not the typical “put a logo on the chest and we’re done.”  I would really be curious to see what the back of the shirt looks like.  I read that it does have the Golfwing logo top and center.  Oh, and it also comes in pink for the ladies.  They are both available at Goldwingcountry.com

How Skinny Can You Go?

These hot red and black vintage ties were on  sale in the “Fit for a Vintage Gent” section of InColdStorage.Etsy.com in honor of this blog.  They have long since sold, but they are still worth mentioning. One is a standard width at 2 1/2″, is textured silk that was sold at Marsh’s.  The other is a black skinny tie at only 1 3/4″ wide with fluer de lys.  It was made by Pilgrim.

One could definitely take these two ties on a trip where the ability to be a clothes horse is limited.  One could stretch your wardrobe without having to bring an additional suit, as the two go with the same color palettes, yet differe in width and look to make one look like they are wearing a whole different outfit.  The condition is impeccable, and they would be equally suited for the collector, or for someone who just wants to look good.

It made me think of how skinny ties have been as far as mainstream fashion goes.  Does a bolo count?  If not, to me, 2″ seems to be the thinnest.  What’s the thinnest that you have seen?

Etiquette on Fake Diamonds and AlmostDiamonds.Com Review

I used to discuss etiquette a bit more on this site, and a reader’s note reminded me of how much I miss it. If you have any etiquette questions related to fashion, etiquette from back in the day or just general lady and gentlemanliness, feel free to leave me a comment and I will do my best to answer it.

The question the reader posed was as follows:

Q:  Is giving or receiving fake diamond rings, or more so Fake Diamond Engagement Rings, a faux pax?  Not everyone can afford a big rock, and it seems that a lot of people trade them in anyways for something they rather have.

A:  I’m glad that you asked.

There are several things to consider here. Firstly, let’s go with the scenario that both parties are on the same page and are comfortable with the idea.  If both parties were on the same page, then I see no fashion crime committed. While it may not be the view you would expect me to take, this is a case where love trumps money.

Some individuals rightfully believe that the marriage is more important than the ring. If a nervous groom and blushing bride don’t have the funds to throw an expensive fete, or even a mid range fete, and it is the difference between waiting to buy a $2,000-10,000 diamond ring or proposing now, then a stand in might be an option.  It can be upgraded to a real diamond for an anniversary in the future, or all involved might be happy with the original.

In fact, Cubic Zirconia Engagement Ringsare a great option when you are traveling and don’t want to risk losing a ring on a scuba diving trip. A new bride may want to show off her new husband and new ring to new friends, but wants the real one to stay in the safe deposit box. When flashing someone a ring, you can’t really tell that its not white gold and is sterling silver  (I recommend going with sterling silver for longevity rather than a composite metal…that is a definite) instead. Of course, a jeweler would, but in a normal social setting it would be unquestioned. Of course, if the stone is extremely large, then it might be.

I also know many people who are in the manufacturing business, in trades, or work on farms.  They might need to leave their engagement ring off most of the time for safety reasons.  They may feel it is a better investment to put money in the band, rather than in a bauble they won’t wear.  They may appreciate a fake diamond to wear in social settings.  Oh, and don’t forget theatrical productions and films where it would break the budget to buy real.

When a fashion crime may be committed is when you find the most outlandish ring you can for daily wear.  Just like wearing a ten carat diamond, it may come across as pretentious.  Just consider the person receiving it, and if you are the one wearing it, consider the overall style you usually prefer.

Next, let’s go with the scenario where the bride to be is in the dark.  If one party is being dishonest to the other and pointing out , and passing them off as real, then that is another issue entirely. Marriage should be built on honesty and trust, and starting out by being deliberately dishonest to someone is not the way to go.  I suggest instead of proposing, you examine if you have been honest to your spouse to be in other areas of your life.  If this is the only glaring omission if you follow through with it, I would come clean.  Test the waters to see if your idea will fly and if it doesn’t, go right to Plan B and get a diamond.  Have it come up in conversation.  You can talk about “a friend of yours” or talk about fake rings in general and that you think they are great for whatever reason.  Then let that open up the discussion. You really should know your spouse to be well enough by now to know if it is a good idea to even approach the topic or not.

Of course, this shouldn’t replace everyone’s giving and getting of a diamond, but it is not a complete fashion “no”.

AlmostDiamonds.com is where we got the photos from.  They have a wide selection of faux diamonds for any budget.