A Brief on Briefs
Excuse us for bringing up a delicate subject for a moment..Why exactly do men buy vintage underthings? It seems to be a growing trend. Being sticklers for every historical detail? For a certain thrill? Neither….Read on!Wearing vintage briefs certainly won’t matter for reenactors. Afterall, you do not have x-ray vision to find out if the gent at a 20s style Gatsby picnic is wearing historically accurate underthings and in most cases, wearing them or wearing something freshly store bought would not impact the outward look of a garment. Men’s underthings do not have quite the history that ladies underthings do, which are meant to support and shape the body depending on figure type but more so the fashionable tastes and social morals of the day. (Of course also, there were times in history of course that while the proper lady wore layers of undergarments, the gents wore none!)When perusing the internet, and hearing from wearers of vintage underthings and other vintage clothing merchants alike, we found that a certain fetishist aspect was also not the reason for the interest like we half expected. Afterall, the underwear preferred is usually left over stock from a store that closed years ago.The big, mysterious reason that men buy vintage underwear is…They don’t make ‘em like they used to. You heard us right!There are several reasons they aren’t “made like they are used to” and one has to do with homogenization of sizing and the other has to do with features. The features that men may find in years past, even as late as the 70s and 80s are as follows:Fit. Boxer shorts especially are made in Small, medium, and large, and it is leaning that way with regular briefs too. It does save money for manufacturers’ bottom line because everyone is forced to pick something. They don’t have produce signage for sizes that don’t sell through as quickly and they have fewer templates required to cut from, also decreasing the chance of irregulars. One size does not fit all, and just as women have fitting problems when they are expected to fit into one of 3 or 4 sizes, men have similar, even if less obvious issues. I am sure everyone has experienced, male or female, when one size was too small and the next size up was too big!
Snaps front styling. One found a snap front feature in different styles of briefs rather than full elastic. This allowed for easy dressing, especially for those with special considerations such as mobility issues, freedom from irritation that some men experience with elastic waistbands or even perhaps allergies to synthetic fabrices.
Quality of fabric. The content of the cotton used and the grade of fabric, and the fact that items were not blended with synthetic some men find more comfortable, and some find to last longer through multiple washings.
Kangaroo Pouch. There, I have said it. Munsungwear, I believe, actually coined the term. Instead of just a slit in the front, older styles actually had a complete seperate area in the front, to speak politely. It allowed for a better overall fit because the leg holes were not encumbered by the excess of material needed in the front, and allowed further wearing ease with certain types of garments.
Leg Bands. Many times the leg area was fully formed, not just an afterthought, and the leg bands could be elastic on regular briefs.
Gussetting. The seams and crotch area were lined, unlike some modern versions.
We are not intending this to be the “last word” as it is a vast subject and there could be a whole book I am sure devoted, nor are we out to “convert” anyone to wearing vintage underwear. We hope to have explained a little more about what makes vintage men’s underthings buyers tick, so you will know what it is all about should you run acrossed an ad for some, and not think it is anything strange, or more so think that folks need to get a life and stroll down to their local store and get what everyone else is wearing with no complaints. Of course, you can still think that way, but at least you know to use the old phrase “there is a method to their madness.”
fashion history | Comment (0)1947: Creepy Bathing Suit
Tommy Goodwin, well known in golfing circles, here wears the wrap-around handkerchief suit. This probably will not become a broadly accepted type of swim trink, but it does in its way typify the Nassau idea
- Fairchild’s Mens Wear, March 7, 1947
Creepy wasn’t owned and patented by the 1970s, though the 70s definitely must have had the “creepy moustache” trademarked. There were plenty of fashions in eras that were supposed to be considered “the time of the classic and timeless attire” that had its own corner on the “what were you thinking factor. The Speedo may have been the 70s answer to the creepy bathing suit that few really should have a license to wear. The 1940s had the wrap front trunk.
Although the trade publication above doubted that it would catch on, it seemed notable enough to include in a special Southern Resort Wear Issue. It may be an exciting and sought after fashion footnote to collectors, but a sigh of relief to the general public that it didn’t catch fire. In fact, I have never found another reference on the internet or in a book so far for it. I am sure once this is published, I’ll find out that there are 42 books written about it.
Tommy Goodwin was referred to “Suntanned Tommy Goodwin” in a 1949 New York Times article, and perhaps the nom de vis was an explanation of his mental state. Perhaps too much Bahamian sun caused him to have heat stroke and influenced his swimwear decisions in years prior. He had actually spent much of his time in Nassau by then.
So, the next time you look down your nose, thinking the 40s were the epitome of style, manners, and grace, and the 70s was a sleazy time of tacky swimwear and bad hair, remember the wrap front swim trunk.
Until next time,
LA Time Machines: Where to Wear
Los Angeles Time Machines is a site that we have been watching for awhile that we think our readers would enjoy. It focuses exclusively on pre-1970s restaurants and bars that are still in their original state. Occasionally, there are updates on when folks can make a big difference in saving a historic vintage landmark so stay plugged in!
It mainly focuses on the many sites in Los Angeles, California, but has extended to includes spots in Nevada, Maryland, Washington and beyond.
So, go look up a historic place and show up in your vintage clothing! It would make a great retro photo!
http://www.latimemachines.com
When Socks Mattered
Socks are something that are sorely neglected today. I don’t mean “today” literally. It is obviously the middle of summer so a lot of you are not wearing socks everyday. I meant, in general. Flashback to 1947, where hosiery ads (a.k.a. sock ads) were evenly sprinkled throughout the March 1947 Fairchild Men’s Wear Magazine (A trade publication to the industry). The argyle numbers, above, were being touted for the outdoors inspiration in their patterns and colors. They were retailing at $2.00 per pair. Sounds pretty reasonable for fine Australian wool, right?
Adjusted for inflation, men expected to pay approximately $21.03 for a pair if you converted into today’s money. A lot of you would say that was quite pricey, when you can make your way over to the mall and buy some for $1.99 on the clearance rack and scoff at how the $9.00 socks are the result of price gouging. The fact of the matter is, socks were just made a heck of a lot better. In fact, people used to repair their socks. When proper ladies and gentleman want to swear, but are not angry enough to forget their matters, they say “Darn It,” to this very day. So it is actually a very positive statement versus merely being a euphemisn for something far less polite.
Even though socks were more cared for back then, apparently they were still a cause for unrest. This ad from Westminster Ltd. was a little puzzling. The slogan was “You’re Asking for a Good Sock…”
The message is simple enough. What is a little puzzling is the whole scene that is playing out in the restaurant.
We have a waiter that is looking either a little peeved that the gentleman left a rotten tip or is a little snooty. The man looks really angry or embarrassed about something. The young lady appears to be looking at you, maybe to motion over to you to intervene, or to sort of apologize for what has just happened? What does this have to do with socks? Maybe I have it all wrong, and the waiter can’t believe the man lights up a cigar in this white table-clothed establishment. However, the man is so uncomfortable because he is wearing socks are too tight, and his toes are poling through the holes, that he can’t help but act on it.
This ad was directed towards the “industry:” clothing stores and boutiques, manufacturers, and others in the trade. Therefore, I am wondering if I am missing the joke or the reference, not being a post-war textile manufacturer, or perhaps this is something that will make perfect sense when I have a eureka moment at 2 A.M.
Sometimes I just think too much…
Until Next Time….
Robert Talbott: A Brief Bio
Robert Talbott was founded by Robert and Audrey Talbott in the 1950s. Audrey, prior to her marriage to Robert, was a clothing buyer. As a hobby, she created bowties for Robert and his friends. With her skill and Robert’s dream to manufacture a true quality product, Robert Talbott the company was born. By 1955, the business was a success and they were traveling the world for silk.
In 1958, the first Robert Talbott store opened in Carmel, New York with a second opening in Pebble Beach in 1968. 24 years later, in 1992, a Madison Avenue showcase store was opened. Dress shirts were added to the Robert Talbott line in 1990, which had been exclusively ties up until this point. Casual shirts and outerwear followed.
Today, Audrey Talbott has shifted her focus to high quality ladieswear and her eponymous line is featured at many boutiques throughout the country.
A woven SILK tie…square bottomed and skinny. Robert Talbott for Jacobson’s from the 80s…
This bio that I wrote and submitted to the Vintage Fashion Guild label resource, where it also appears. If you are a trivia junkie or a fashion lover, you should check it out.
Until Next Time,
Is Patent Leather Really Leather?
by The VintageGent-ette
(Reprinted by Popular Demand)
There are a lot of terms that people tend to ascribe to slick and glossy accessories, such as: patent leather, patent vinyl, wet look vinyl, and PVC. Is it all the same? And is “patent leather” REALLY leather? And how do I know?
The VintageGent hopes to clear that up for you…
To answer the first question: No, and to answer the second question, Yes, as long as it is correctly identified. To answer the third question: we’ll discuss some techniques.
History
The process originated with the high laquering of leather, called Japanning. In more modern times, Seth Boyden is credited for perfecting the process of creating patent leather in 1818, thus called because the process once was patented. . Back then, a linseed coating was bonded to the leather to create a high gloass finish. Today, its typically a petroluem product that is bonded. This is not to be confused with poromeric imitation leather
Poromeric Imitation Leather is what a lot of folks refer to as “patent leather” when actually it isn’t. It has a high glossy finish and is a petroleum product or a vinyl. Because of the material, color can be more consistent in the manufacturing process and a greater flexibility produces every color of the rainbow and then some. The vinyl is typically backed with polyester.
The first poromeric leather was released in 1964. It was easily cleanable, but stiff and not breathable, which made it ideal for structured handbags, but not so ideal for shoes. DuPont ceased producing of it in 1971. There are other patented names of glossy substitutes such as Clarino from Japan.
PVC. Actually, PVC is polyvinyl chloride. Its an ingredient in what makes “PVC vinyl” but not the end product. As this is the common term in clothing and accessories and not a chemistry lesson, we will go with “PVC.” PVC vinyl used in handbags, belts, and other accessories. It is much more flexible than poromerics, thus making it more versatile and more practical for some uses. It is commonly used in accessories, such as belts, trim, some handbags such as tote bags, aprons, and some raingear. The material also has a following in the boudoir and fetish markets.
How to identify genuine patent leather.
There is just not “one” definitive answer…but here are some clues…
This may help whether you have an item in your hands, or are shopping online.
1) Items may be stamped “genuine leather” or “genuine patent leather.” However, there are times when the gold stamped lettering fade, labels tear, or are seperated.
2) When a genuine item gets damaged at the corners, it will behave as leather does and you will feel leather or a sueded edge depending on how serious the damage is. On poromeric it is likely to tear and you may see or feel a backing.
3) Look for higher end hardware, and higher end linings. Items with leather or sueded leather linings are always genuine. Occasionally they may have satin or faille. Vinyl linings indicate PVC. PVC can have fabric linings as well, but never leather. Poromeric typically havesatin weave fabrics, polyester, or felt, but makers sometimes get creative. But never leather.
4) Color. Traditional, genuine patent leather doesn’t come in the wide range of colors poromeric leather comes in. Look for dark and traditional colors such as black, brown, red, navy, and the occasional jewel tone with black being the most common and the others rarer. Pastels would be a rarity, or they would be poromeric as it is difficult to dye leather lighter than its natural color unless it goes through further manipulation or treatment. PVC can also come in just about any color.
5) Date. The older an item (pre mid 60s) the more likely it is to be genuine patent leather. But it doesn’t mean it is.
6) Pin test. If you absolutely have to know, you can take a hot pin and gently and evenly poke a tiny hole in the leather. If the pin melts or goes through the top layer only, its leather. If it goes all the way through…its not. Not recommended unless you must, as it will damage the item.
In the market place.
It is true that “patent leather” has entered the colloquial dialect with accepted usage covering both actual patent leather, and any glossy vinyl that mimics it. It is not merely a matter of sellers shying away from what is accurate for fear of no one finding their items; most of the educated public does not differentiate themselves. It requires both the disclosure of the seller and the inquisitiveness and education of the buyer to make sure that what you see is what you get. If you do not think your item is genuine leather, please clarify in the listing by indicating as such.
Believe it or not, there are folks who prefer to look for poromeric or PVC for the color selection, or for the qualities of the material. Buzzwords such as “patent leather-like vinyl” will help steer potential shoppers to your listings, while also giving you the opportunity to educate and to clairfy that it is poromeric. “Wet Look” vinyl is a good way to describe PVC, and it is searched too! Searching “genuine patent leather” in descriptions will help narrow down the search if its leather you seek.
Have fun, and I hope that this brief guide helped you find exactly what you are looking for, or didn’t know you needed!