VintageGent’s Menswear Daily

A Clean Student Body: Your Classmates Thank You

Meet and Greet Your (Online) Shop Customers

Tsz-Chiu Au wrote a detailed report for the University of Maryland Computer Department on “Guidelines of Online Help Design, E-mail Help Methods and Online Customer Service for Website Developers.” What does this have to do with you? Well, your website hawking 17th century sideboards, reproduction spats or 1950s bowling shoes should not be antiquated in its FAQ or ordering process. According to the paper, an important goal of any website is to “Anticipate problems users may encounter and prepare solutions.” If folks ask the same question over and over about how they pay for that snazzy sharkskin suit, don’t take on an indignant attitude. There is probably something lacking from your written instructions or FAQ. In the cases that it things are quite well spelled out, providing a clear method for a customer to receive additional assistance is imperative. Don’t just say “If they really want it, they’ll email me.”

A few websites I frequent have a “chat” feature. There is no communication with a live person. Rather, a question is punched in and information from the FAQ and Help sections spit back at you. Usually, the site “names” the fake representative, such as PayPal’s Sarah.

I had a little fun with Sarah earlier today.

Unlike the PayPal set up, there is software for customer support that offers a more interactive chat feature where a live person can actually come on the line I learned a lot about what actually goes on behind the scenes today. Could it be something that would help with conversion for your clothing or vintage retail site? Read on to decide.

Usually, the interactive feature is designated by a phone icon or a photo of a female or male operator. Once a site visitor clicks, they are automatically greeted. An automated message might welcome the visitor to the site. What happens next is determined by the questions asked. If the question is simple and fairly standard, pre-scripted information might be returned. However, if the question is not typical, a live person could come on the line seamlessly. In fact, a live person may already be there monitoring the conversation, but the automated messages such as “Let me look that up for you…” or even the canned info buys a rep the time they need to talk to two customers at once.

In a dashboard panel, a website owner or customer service officer can see who is visiting their site. They don’t know your name, but they know what terms you searched to arrive at the site, what country or state you are in and what page you are viewing. If you have filled your online cart, but appear to be walking away from the site, a rep can chime in and ask if you have any questions.

If the site owner is you, you might be able to answer a question or two that might help close the sale or at least remove any frustration a potential customer has about not finding their size or with navigation. Is it annoying to a customer or does this sort of software for customer support help your shoppers out? Try it next time you are on a retail site that offers the feature, looking at it now knowing how it works. If I sprung for that on this blog, the fashion tips might be dangerous. It is sort of old fashioned — actually talking to your customers.

This is completely nontraditional for a site that sells antiques or retro or collectible clothing, but could you imagine tapping away at the keyboard and being open and available to go grab that extra measurement for that customer? Sure, you might think they would email you, but some folks want instant gratification or they just are too timid to ask. Or they are having problem with their email server at the moment. Simple questions could be immediately answered without your involvement at all, but you could step in at a moment’s notice.

Some merchants give out their Skype or their cell phone, but they can easily be caught off guard on a family picnic. Would a chat assistant that is “on” when you are “on” give you a better work/life or better shop for vintage clothing and antiques/sell vintage clothing and antiques balance?

Let Iconic Images Lend You a Hand

Just scanning around http://www.savings.com again for any missed discounts before I take the plunge into stocking the supply closet. While the user-submitted coupon codes for Bed Bath & Beyond don’t surprise me, discounts at Getty Images turned my head. Getty licenses many historical and editorial images, including some iconic photos you’ve invariably seen in vintage issues of Life magazine.

While there are many places to buy images on posters, on their site you can purchase the rights to iconic photos to use in your print magazine, commercial advertising pitch or book. Imagine making an advertisement with Cary Grant wearing the same style of 1930s or 1940s tuxedo you have for sale in your shop. Each photo carries a variety of prices depending on whether its used for an editorial article or a company’s advertisement. Then add in circulation or media type.

The coupon codes on Savings.com appear to not be too terribly old. There are discounts for first time customers, 20% off sport imagery, percentages off music footage and more. Click on the “Add Coupon” button after the description for each offer and the discount should appear in the shopping cart at Getty with a qualifying purchase. Be sure to assign feedback and give a deal a thumbs up or down if it worked, or did not.

If you are not in the market for media, surely you can hunt down a discount for school supplies, jewelry or clothing that will earn you your own iconic moment…like that famous sailor or nurse.

Be Lady Luck

Miss Missoni for Target? A Vintage Redux

As anyone who checks their RSS feed or news sites knows, the Missoni for Target line sold out within hours in stores in many major markets. Early adopters are recycling their duplicates on eBay for a quick buck or two. Were you hankering for a dress, a tie or the coveted Missoni throw blanket? Reports are that some items, such as childrens items and accessories can still be had at certain stores.

Did anyone at the ‘Daily push through the crowds?

No matter what the style is that everyone has to have, on someone that it doesn’t quite suit, it looks as if a hat, tie or dress is coming at you from down the hall, rather than someone cutting out a fashionable figure. When someone stops saying, “You look great,” and replaces it “Here comes that dress again.,” or “Drive by again. You can’t miss that suit,” then you have to do a bit of a review. Though I have some friends that can rock it, but one bit of feeling you are wearing someone else’s skin and it just doesn’t work. The VintageGent=ette’s petite frame and seemingly opposite skin undertone than the current colors that are flattered was overwhelmed. Still, I do have a hankering for some scarves, ties and stationary if the afterglow, after crowd scavenger hunt is a success. The only disappointment is that there are many, many items Made in China, but that seems par for the course.

Are you, too, dreaming of zig zags but are not quite got the gumption to shell out lots of cash on eBay? Look no further than items inspired by Missoni the first time around. One of the most coveted items was and is the Missoni throw blanket. Well, feast a gander here. At left, is the true Target throw. Next to it are several vintage afghans from the 1970s with the undoubted trend for zigzags created the first time around when Missoni was something very new:

The three blankets to the right were made by hand in the 1970s and are available from Etsy sellers right now, unless they sell out of course. I was not able to see and touch the Missoni blanket, but can say some of these undiscovered hand made wonders were usually made to stand the test of time, long after trends change.

From left to right (Target – as much as $177.50 on eBay, Afghan from HammerAndZipper – $85.00, Afghan by BytheWaySide -  $40.00, Crocheted Zig Zag from KPDreams – $34.99).

Sure, you can go out and buy vintage Missoni clothing, but if you find that untouchable, here is a way to get the look in your home without feeling you are buying designer knockoffs. Handmade pieces from yesteryear may be inspired by the trends of the day but they are truly one of  kinds. Just instead of it being draped over a settee at Grandma’s house, they’ll be on the beds of trendsters and fashionistas, if that term isn’t passe.

Tune Togs: 40s Does 90s

It is very common to see items described as “40s does 90s,” meaning an item that was made in the 1990s that has some design details that evoke styling from the 1940s. Have you ever seen an item made in the 40s that was inspired by the 90s?

1890s that is.

I recently came acrossed this 1947 ad for “Tune Togs,” a resort and beachwear line that featured novelty prints. The illustrations dramatized a different song from the “Gay 90s.” This one features the tune “By the Sea.” Did you know that song was that old? Promotional song books were made to advertise the line.

If you have “Tune Togs,” I would love to see photos of them. Post a picture url in comments to share with readers, or email me.  The ad was found in Fairchild’s Menswear, their March 1947 issue, which is a publication to the clothing industry. It sure makes me long for the days of summer. Even though I am not much of a shorts person, I could use a warm day or two about now. Of course, I would just complain that I have to put the wool stuff away that I like so much.

If the Jeans Fit…Win It!

Let The World Know, Vintage Sellers: Advertise on the Air

When I was more active as a vintage clothing merchant (still am, re-launch coming soon), I wondered why more shops and online sellers didn’t take advantage of promotional or advertising opportunities. While some of my colleagues really only wanted their business to be a small hobby they could choose to work on or not, and they couldn’t handle the increased demand, others came across with either a poverty mentality or an elitist attitude. They just didn’t want the “public” to paw through their wares, or more so, thought people just wouldn’t know how to appreciate them properly. Well, I’ve got some news. Vintage clothing has become very popular either from the perspective of being a frugal option, or to mimic the selections of the stars. What better way to educate people to NOT stuff themselves in a fragile antique World War I flight suit that is ten sizes too small, or to appreciate the workmanship of a forty year old designer gown than to create your own platform.

Of course, except for the occasional upscale consignment slash vintage shop slash antique store in a highly commercial touristy formerly quaint village, the niche is absent from the airwaves. It is daunting, I will admit, once you search talent and put some sort of script together. There are media production companies, such as Studio Center, that pull it all together for you. The field is wide-open being that no antique establishment or antique shop has really come up with a memorable ad campaign locally or otherwise.

Did you know that there is such thing as an “Anti-Announcer?” An “Anti-Announcer”-type sounds like a regular person rather than a Don Pardo/Ed McMahon/Don LaFontaine type. (You know the late Don LaFontaine for his dramatic move trailer work. “In a world where…”). Don’t confuse this with pulling your neighbor’s attractive granddaughter into the shop. What we may think of as a “normal/regular voice” doesn’t always translate the same on the reel. We all have different speaking habits, some of which are unnoticeable to us in daily speech, but are glaring on play-back. A voice actor (or actress, though I consider “actor” unisex) classified as a “non announcer” is articulate, but doesn’t have the timber or formality of delivery as a traditional announcer.

So, take a plunge? Being “traditional” and “classic” doesn’t mean people shouldn’t know who you are.

Gray is the New Black (T-Shirt)

The blog of Street Shirts, an online UK t-shirt printing boutique, touts gray as the “new black” this fall, at least in the world of t-shirts. For the ladies, they suggest a black blazer, leather leggings and heels. For day, ripped jeans and espadrilles are the answer–sort of a rock and roll look.

For men:

The best combo: pre-washed jeans, a classic gray tee or a customized hoodie and a pair of Converse sneakers.

Why, aside from sites and blogs and magazines that weddings, or are GQ, do folks assume that men are slobs? Not for nothing–vintage Converse are very collectible and classic and are perfect in some circumstances, and some hoodies these days run $40-300 and can be permanently pressed. That being so, why is it always assumed that for smart casual fashion, hoodies are the way to go if you are under 30? Or under 50? What happened to a classic cut all-American blue jean with a white or gray T, without trying to pretend its formal clothing, yet not also trying to pretend its gym wear? If you must, what about a leather jacket or a blazer? But not a formal one.

At any rate, speaking of t-shirts, StreetShirts has a robust service where an artiste is not limited to the “front center, middle of the chest” placements of designs a la the 1980s t-shirt shops. For your band, or to promote your clothing store, you can actually create those funky off center looks. Want a blank shirt with only your design in the lower right? Done. When you have that flexibility, a T can be an artistic expression and not merely a logo shout out.

Rum Lore: Pickford and the Pirates

Educational Opportunity for the Enlisted and Recently Returned

Flattering Scrubs…Minus the Smiling Rainbows

While dressing for work may allow latitude for originality at “creative” companies, jobs requiring uniforms are not as stifling as they may seem. There is something comforting, in some ways, about a routine. As long as one can keep up with the laundry, going to work in a uniform lends some anonymity for some, and tailored style for others. While the most famous uniforms, such as military dress blues, cut a dashing figure, surgical scrubs and other scrub clothing are often the same shapeless sacks as they always were.

Maybe I am being a bit harsh, but while gentleman sometimes have an advantage, as many were made for the male form originally, the designs are sometimes equally unflattering to both genders. Scrubs for men are often limited to plain blue, as the patterns are frequently populated by kittens and pastel unicorns–that is, unless you LIKE smiling kitties and pastel unicorns. They are really not as compulsory for nursing scrubs as you would imagine. For women, the baggy profile make most ladies look formless.

Next time you look to buy scrubs online, take a gander at Blue Sky Scrubs. The contrast-stitching on the pockets gives the plain designs some visual interest. The scrubs come in both male and female sizing scales. There is also a fitted top for ladies (Take a peep here: http://www.blueskyscrubs.com/categories/Scrubs/Scrubs-for-Women/) It is not inappropriate or revealing in any way. It merely eliminates some of the superfluous materials under the arms that create a boxy silhouette. In the medical profession, extra fabric is not necessarily modest. It is a safety hazard when flapping sleeves get caught.

Save Like a Penny Pinching Hermit

Vintage Reads: Look Younger, Live Longer – Part I

While perusing the liquidation of a family estate, the x and y coordinates of “someone could use that, you can’t throw that away,” and “save it til its older” multiplied themselves by “don’t throw a book away. The information could be lost forever.”  There were a few historical tomes that were also saved, but this 1950s gem of a self help/nutritional book bewitched us all. After all, “The Story of Genghis Khan” or the “Elementary Book of Arithmetic” from 1927 are probably  “what you see is what you get” types of situations. Not as much “truth in advertising” as “Snakes on a Plane” obviously because the title of that film also informs us of the complete plot as well, and not just the subject, but close.

Gayelord Hauser’s Look Younger, Live Longer from the 1950s promised to be a rousing read, just because one doesn’t know what to expect. The expression of presumably Hauser on the cover, doesn’t exactly convey the feeling of “Whoopee, I feel great.” He seems to be sort of keeping his eye on us to make sure we do the “reducing diet.”

On a quick scan of the book, much of it is good, solid advice about poo-pooing sugars and bleached and refined wheat, especially the (and I quote) “Old Ladies Home diet” of gooey pastries and white bread. Quite uncontroversial. But what I love about reading books such as this is that some of the revelations appear very quaint or unusual, either practices that have since been debunked, or new revelations that seem old hat now explained in “late breaking news” sort of way. Hauser shocks us with the revelation that if we play our cards right, we too can live unbelievably long…even past 70 (!), the age that people were designed to live up to and not over. Also, Hauser reveals what exactly our pancreas does and that, believe it or not, our “sex glands” excrete hormones. They are NOT just what we think they are for!

The key to all of this is learning the “Body Slant.” According to Hauser, “wherever body culture or beauty culture is practiced scientifically, much emphasis is placed on its value.” He instructs readers to go outside and lay on their cellar door. That is, if you have an old fashioned slanted cellar door a la Dorothy Gale’s family. If you do not, go get your ironing board and lay one end on the floor and one on a footstool. The whole point of this is that its better and safer than standing on your head and it helps out your spine. Of course, this was replaced in the 70s and 80s by the inversion machine.

I may be giving the book just a bit of a ribbing, which is perhaps misplaced. There is lots of common sense sound advice about eating healthy foods and exercising in moderation that relate to anyone. There’s fashion advice, too, but that’s for a post in the near future. It is very insightful to find books of yesteryear concerning these subjects to see how much our sensibilities have changed…are the same truths always universally the same, have we grown and learned and improved since then with our discoveries, or did people truly live better in decades past? Maybe a little bit of this, and a little bit of that.

Finally – A Slim Fit for the Rest of Us (Win It!)

This post brought to you by Express. All opinions are 100% mine.

Finally. Someone has come to their senses. Not in time for this fellow, at left, unfortunately.

In the furniture industry, it is common practice, or at least it used to be, to choose the most garish and ghastly large scale print sofa for the front window. Only one, if any, person would actually order the soda as shown, but sure as heck, the floodgates would open for 1,000 orders of the previously neglected frame style in beige…or maybe a tone on tone damask stripe for the formal set.

The jeggings (are they really men's jeans or denim paint on tights??) were the loud sofa of the men's fashion industry–looking remarkably good on about five men in the world, and three of them are anime characters from Cowboy Bebop. The rest…well..tongues wagged over how they made physically fit men of inseams smaller than 52 and waists larger than 26 inches look preposterously large, and others look cartoonishly thin.

At last, the look has been modified. While you don't see many jeggings at mass market retailers, the trend did inspire makers to reduce the fabric quotient, toss out the rapper pants. The Rocco cut is just one example. Express jeans–yes, at the Express store–has the Rocco cut in their line up. While the cut is slim, the cut is more generous in the calf, preventing the "giant duck feet" look a tight jegging can create, especially if worn with white sneakers. While not everyone prefers a slim fit, this one flatters several body styles.

Enter the Express giveaway for your chance to grab a pair. Fifty pairs of jeans in the style of your choosing will be given away by Express. Travel to their Facebook page for more details, or if you can't wait, go try on a pair and give me your expert opinion (you are the expert on your fashion sensibility and your getaway sticks, after all).

What is YOUR favorite style of jeans from the latest fashion offerings at Express? Imaginary Bonus points for sharing a story about your worst jeans fashion faux pas. Just leave your John Hancock below.